First of all, I would like to
thank everyone who took the time to comment or e-mail me regarding yesterday’s
post. I sometimes think I am the only one who lives in a rural area. Many of
you lamented that you have no “local” quilt shop. I can easily forget how lucky
I am that Cyndi is only 45 minutes from my house. Actually, if she were any
closer I’d have to re-mortgage!
On to the “Pot Luck” saga… Many
people have commented on the fact that the math for a layout like this would be
overwhelming. So, here’s the skinny. I do like basic mathematics and geometry,
but I am lazy and I’m always looking for the easy way out. So… when I did the
figuring for the overall layout I used a ¼” graph paper and just used the
factor of 2 ½” for each grid. Thus, every block is divisible by 2 ½”.
I mentioned previously that I
had a lot of orphan blocks (or at least I thought I did), and I also wanted the
quilt to be scrappy and interesting so I needed at least 40 blocks. Here is the
final draft of 44 blocks.
Along with the dozens of
potholder quilts I have made utilizing square blocks (ranging from 3” to 16”),
I have also learned to do scalloped shaped blocks and have even made one in the
medallion style. So, I wanted to see if I could make a mish-mash of block sizes
with some half square triangle blocks thrown in too. I'm also mixing hand and machine quilting which is another learning experience.
I learned that the triangle
blocks are fine as long as I am extremely accurate with my outside measurement.
I was pleasantly amazed when the finished block measured exactly what I had
intended. I rarely use solids, but I do
think this red binding fabric really ties it all together.
I have learned a lot about
putting these potholder blocks together. One very important item is when
stitching your blocks together, if one is slightly longer than the other,
always have the longer one facing
It might be the way I stitch,
but for some reason the block on the outer side shrinks as the one closest to
me stretches. Therefore, if the longer one is in front, it will work its way
even in the end. Have I confused you yet?
It is also important to have very "crisp" and pointed corners. If they are even slightly rounded, you will have a gap where your corners come together.
Some of you have asked what
stitch I use to put them together. I call it a modified ladder stitch. I simply
start at the corners by hiding my knot, then going straight across. I then turn
my needle parallel with the binding and come straight back again. It is a
combination of a ladder stitch and a regular whip stitch and it hides my
stitches better and is quite sturdy.
If I am going to use the quilt on a bed
rather than just a display quilt, I will take a few extra overcast stitches
every 1 ½” or so. This way if a seam ever starts to ravel, I only need to fix a
small portion. I learned this the hard way when I gave one to my grandson!
I am using cheater prints on
the back of each block and they hide a multitude of quilting sins. In fact,
except for the hand quilted blocks, you really want to admire this one from
afar. It looks pretty good through the camera lens or from the house next door!
I am having loads of fun
though and may even get it done before the daffodils arrive!